New York Times

août 2005

Frommer'Paris 2006

The crow is young. The food is sophisticated, and the vintage 1950's aura males you think that American expatriate novelist James Baldwin will arrive any minute. A brasserie has occupied this site since around 1900. Surrounded by well-oiled pine panels and polished copper ; you can choose of grandmother's favourites as well as more modern dishes. Owner Jean-Frédéric Guidoni worked for more than 20 years at one of the world's most expensive restaurants, Taillevent, but within his own milieu, he demonstrates his own innovative touch at prices that are much more reasonable. For starters consider a succulent version of Brazilian-style shrimp resting on toast that's been smeared with pulverized olives, capers and pork sausage; a savory version of a cheesy alpine staple, raclette, made with mustard sauce and Curé Nantais cheese ; scallops sautées with Chinese noodles and chanterelles, and served with slices of pink grapefruit; and slow-braised pork cooked for seven hours and served on a bed of carrots, apricots, and confit of lemon. Our most recent dessert was an inspired brownie with a Clementine-flavored sorbet and perfumed juices.”

Knopf Map Guides-Paris (2005 Edition
“A new gourmet restaurant on the Right Bank. Middle Eastern specialities upstairs, traditional brasserie downstairs with a splendid 1950s décor of copper ornaments and red velvet banquettes. Refined and inventive cuisine on both floors. Very friendly staff”.

Time Out Paris – Eating & Drinking 2005/6
“This quietly elegant vintage bistro is in sure hands when updating bourgeois cuisine… we sampled the round pressé of chicken under a mesculan salad and a lovely herby combination of chickpeas, courgettes, carrots and cauliflower in a chicken broth with whole fresh basil leaves. We liked the grey mullet fillet on steamed potatoes with steamed lettuce on top and well-prepared, Italianate veal piccata, with a veal ragout and a thin slice of veal under a pile of courgette and almond slivers. There are some well-prices wines on the list and a highly professional service, so opt for the more classic sounding dishes to appreciate how good the cooking can really be here.”

London Sunday Times (March 6 2005)
“This is a traditional, friendly place, where two alumni of Taillevent, arguably the best restaurant in Paris, turn out variations on classic dishes and more inventive creations such a carpaccio of tuna with mint peas or veal with cumin and orange. It's a place for taste, meaning small portions but interesting flavours. In other words, perfect to lunch.”

, John Tagliabue
“Best new Paris restaurant : Jean. Jean takes simple things and does miracles with tem. Equally creative with fish or meat.”